Report 1st October
By Marjolein and Angela

Cochrane – Villa O’Higgins
Today we get up early at 06.00 because we have a long way to go and we don’t know what road we come across. Our hostess is still sleeping and we have to make breakfast on our own. Outside it is freezing  The rooms were also cold and we had 4 blankets on our beds. But there was a clear blue sky.

Forests near Cochrane

view at the lake

rio Bravo

delta rio Bravo

on the road

trees

It was a long difficult road with many cloves. The first 133 km. took 5 hours before we arrived in Puerto Yungay. The ferry depart at 15.00 o clock but there is a story that we cannot go to Argentina through Villa O’Higgins  and we should drive all the way back.

Puerto Yungay, end of the Carretera Austral. We made it (take 1)

ferry arrives at Puerto Yungay

backwards on the ferry

Watson backwards on the ferry

break at the ferry

But adventurer Dirk goes for it and so we drove on to Villa O’Higgins. But it is a 100 km. drive full of holes. No guardrail and sometimes a 500 m. deep abyss next to us. There is no way you can pass each other here. We see 7 condors flying in the canyon. Beautiful.
After a journey of 3,5 hours we arrive at O’Higgins, a mystic village where the Carretera Austral really ends. We find a cosy cabana and with a nice fire in the house it is warm in no time. The beds are really fine and we sleep very well. We decided to stay another day in this paradise.

Report 24 September
By Marjolein

Quellón – Chaitén

boat art

This morning we left with Don Baldon, an old ferry who sailed in Greece from 1995 to 2008.
4 o’clock in the morning we were already there and quarter past five we finally were on the boat.

on the ferry

cars secured

Usually you have reverse gear on the boat, but we could turn inside the ship because it was not busy with cars. After 5 hours we were in Chaiten.

off the ferry in Chaiten

Chaiten was buried in 2008 under a lava flow. Here, we first have breakfast, got money and food, and filled our tanks because we don’t know what lies ahead of us. The first track was beautiful through the mountains and a beautiful paved road. We would go to Porto Cardenas, but everything was closed. The road has now become gravel and 30 km per hour the max. The next town perhaps? Meanwhile it was raining and later on snow. Poor Dirk, Arnaud and Watson! In the jeep we played the Cats and it was warm. Then it appears that all the villages consist of one house on the map and are close, it was getting later and then snow! Suddenly a snowplow ??

rudolf the red nose reindeer

Watson looking for shelter

landrover in the snow

The village La Junta was 70 km ahead. Then suddenly Villa Santa Lucia shows up, but all cabanas were occupied. We keep trying, then we come to a lady who rented rooms to workers. Almost with our foot in the door we were allowed inside and sleep, we had sheep and potatoes for dinner, and in morning warm rolls with plum jam.

our stay in Santa Lucia

We had to sleep in the attic, mucho frio! We had warm farewell and got on the road to La Junta, with an average speed of 30 km per hour

Report 24 September
By Angela

houses Castro

We got up early, had breakfast, and we made  the rituals associated with the retirement of the SOS Children’s (given nuggets from Edam given). We go on the move to Quellón te catch the early morning boat to Chaitén.

goodbye from SOS children s village Ancud

Along the many meadows, cows and houses, we had a coffee break and were invited by a lovely woman to drink coffee in a small house.

coffee stop

It is impossible to imagine how they live here in the cold. In corrugated roofs and very thin walls and one wood stove. It is really poor. But hospitality was from this woman was high class.
Through Castro, where we shoot some beautiful pictures of colorful houses on stilts, we arrive in Quellón.

houses on stilts Castro

Castro

streets of Castro

view Castro

Everyone wants a picture with Watson again. We are looking for a hotel on the harbor but we thought that the woman said there was no room and we found it not that cozy there. Watson also had to be parked outside on a busy road.

boats in Quellón

We looked from which point the ferry sails away because there would also be a hotel, but there was none. Eventually we find the ferry where carabineros were waiting for us and gives us escort to a luxury hotel. Unfortunately, it was fully booked.
The police brought us to another hotel and we went to bed early because at 3:00 am, the alarm clock goes off for taking the ferry to Chaitén.

harbour Quellón

Report of 23 September
By Angela

We get up early, and the stove is already burning (thanks Marjolein). Our first real day of travel. For Marjolein and me it is exciting. We do not know exactly what lies ahead. Moreover, I have yet to get confidence in the Landrover and driving it. How it feels,  a heavily loaded car driving on a steep slope. A real adventure lies ahead.
The bags are loaded on the rooftop, a container of hot coffee and water and snacks in the back of the car. The men in Watson want sweets, but we have none. In town we go ahead with the Garmin but then Watson takes the lead. A new highway leads us to  Pargua where we take the ferry that brings us to Chiloé.

arriving in Ancud

ferry to Chiloé

on the ferry

Dirk, Marjolein en Angela

There is a stiff breeze, but the ferry would not budge. Watson has a lot of attention on the ferry and everyone wants to take a picture. A scenic drive to Ancud follows on the island, and on the road you feel like you are then in England, then in Bonaire and then in Iceland.

view of Chiloé

view of Chiloé 1

We are guests in an SOS Children’s Village. After crisscrossing the village and where I have my first inclining experiment on a dirt road in the low range, we arrive at the village. It lies on the outskirts of Ancud and poverty down is good to see down the roads.

fishing ships in Ancud

arriving in Ancud

Dogs are everywhere and in every mini shop you can buy dog food. Even at the bakery. Of course we buy food for all the street dogs.
In the SOS village 43 children live in the age of 4-17 years. They live over 7 houses. The other five houses are empty. A good sign. In the 90’s 75 children has lived here. The director of the village is not present, and the rest speak only Spanish. In the evening we walk through poverty to the canter where we drink a beer and eat a nice meal. Although you can buy vegetables and fruits everywhere, that does not come at the dinner table. Meat or fish with rice or fries. It was delicious! We walk back and went to bed satisfied.